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Visiting the Monarch Butterfly Reserve in Mexico

12/7/2018

28 Comments

 

The monarchs have arrived in central Mexico and the sanctuaries are officially open to the public!

If you've found yourself on this page, you probably don't need any convincing to go see this phenomenon. Seeing millions of Monarch butterflies floating in the sky like an orange and black snowstorm is truly a magical experience. However, there are even more reasons to visit the overwintering ground in Central Mexico.

In the past, the forests of the sanctuary have suffered from issues of illegal logging and this is still happening in some places. However, with the income from butterfly tourism and concern about the Monarch population, some locals have started tree nurseries and are working as guides within in the sanctuary.  By visiting the sanctuary, you are helping to raise awareness and employ those who are protecting the sanctuary. 

When to Visit

The Monarchs generally begin to arrive at the sanctuaries in the central mountains of Mexico around Day of the Dead with this year being no exception. They will overwinter there until mid-March and then head North again. The sanctuaries open to the public on November 16th.
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The most popular time to see them is between January and February when they are in peak migration. However, I would highly recommend going in late-November or December. Why? For one, there will most likely be less people and you will have a more private experience. Don't worry, you will still see A LOT of butterflies. The video above was taken in Cerro Pelon in early December.  

There are 4 sanctuaries open to the public. Each of these sanctuaries is a little different in accessibility, difficulty of hike, location, Monarch population, and flora. Pick the right one for you or visit them all!

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A Monarch feeding on Salvia mexicana in the sanctuary

Cerro Pelón

Cerro Pelón is where scientists first confirmed that the butterflies migrated from Canada all the way to this Oyamel Fir forest in Central Mexico. Many butterfly enthusiasts and travelers will say that this is the most rugged and beautiful of the sanctuaries. I would have to agree that it was a lovely and private experience. Other than the arborists, ranger, and our guide we were the only people up there on the mountain. 
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The view on the ride up to Cerro Pelon
We booked our Cerro Pelon tour and stay through JM's Butterfly B&B. As far as I know, they are the only local guide company based in Macheros, the mountain village where the entrance to the sanctuary is. In fact, the entrance to the sanctuary is just a few minutes walk from JM Butterfly House and someone from the B & B will escort you. I highly recommend staying at JM's and booking a tour with them. Their guides, as well as the owners, Joel and Ellen, are extremely hospitable, knowledgeable and will give you the full butterfly experience! I was very excited to meet the Butterflies and Their People arborists.
For prices and concise directions to JM Butterfly click here. 

It is a very steep hike up even for the experienced hiker. I opted for the horse and it was about an hour and 20 minute ride up the mountain at a fairly brisk pace (for the horse). Have no fear if you are not an experienced horseback rider because there will be a horse handler to lead you and your horse.
​Once you arrive at a clearing at the top of the mountain, your handler will tie up your horse and it will be between a 15 and 25 minute walk to the colony of butterflies. Keep in mind that the length of time will vary considerably at different times of the season. I visited at the beginning of December. My guide, Ana, said that the Monarchs generally continue to move deeper into the forest and higher on the mountain as more butterflies arrive. 
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Arborist Leonel, our guide Anayeli Moreno, arborists Jose Carmen Contreras and Oswaldo Esquive, one of the forest rangers, along with myself and my mother in Cerro Pelon

Sierra Chincua

This was the second most recommended sanctuary by the folks of JM Butterfly House and I was told it was less developed and less touristy than El Rosario.
My mother and I stayed in Zitácuaro the night before which is about an hour and a half drive from the sanctuary. We took a bus to Angangueo (also called Pueblo Mágico), a small mountain village with beautiful, colorful houses and a lovely cathedral. It is the perfect launch pad for El Rosario and Sierra Chincua, being just about a 30 minute taxi drive to either. I would recommend staying in this village if you get the chance. 
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It's easy to see how Angangueo got it's name Pueblo Magico (Magic Village).
After taking a bus from Zitácuaro to Angangueo for around 50 pesos ($2.50 USD), we took a taxi from the plaza of Angangueo to the entrance of Sierra Chincua for around 100 Pesos ($5 USD).
 Important Note: Once up on the mountain in Sierra Chincua, public transport is very limited and you may want to arrange a ride prior. We were told that there is a combi (an outfitted VW bus) that arrives at 5:00 pm but we decided to have our taxi driver wait for us. The price for this will vary depending on your taxi driver but he told us he would wait 2 hours and take us back to Angangueo for 500 Pesos ($25 USD). 
Sierra Chincua did not disappoint. Entry fee into the Sanctuary was 50 Pesos ($2.50) per person and renting a horse is 200 pesos ($10 dollars). It is also customary to tip your guide somewhere between 100 and 200 Pesos. There are also great restaurants and souvenir shops at the entrance.
The horseback ride was much shorter than the one to Cerro Pelon and was only about 15 minutes up (although it is quite steep). From there, it was about a 15 minute walk to the tree stand that is inhabited by the butterfly colony. It was a cloudy day and most of the butterflies were roosting in the trees. A different perspective than the sunny day we had in Cerro Pelon! Both views were absolutely stunning. 
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Examples of the clearly marked signs within Sierra Chincua
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There were a quite a few more people on the mountain here than in Cerro Pelon
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The butterflies roosting in the Oyamel Fir trees in Sierra Chincua

El Rosario

Unfortunately, we didn't have time to visit El Rosario this year although we got close. From Angangueo, you can take a combi to the entrance which is about 30 minutes and will cost less than 50 pesos ($2.50 USD).
Here is a quote by Ellen Sharp from JM Butterfly House about El Rosario:
"Unlike the unmarked trail that winds up the mountain on Cerro Pelon, here you’ll find numerous souvenir stalls, large tour groups, concrete steps, interpretive signs, and a lot more guides making sure you don’t get too close to the colony. The hike up is mostly on a paved trail and it takes 30-45 minutes each way, depending on your speed and acclimation. A horse will get you there in 20 minutes. In recent years, El Rosario has been the most populous of the butterflies’ overwintering sites. "

Piedra Herrada

Again, we were not able to visit this site but here is a summary from JM Butterfly House:
"The trip from our place to Piedra Herrada takes you through the small farming villages of the State of Mexico on a road lined with fields of fruit trees and nopal cactuses. Then the road descends into the cosmopolitan colonial gem and weekend resort town, Valle de Bravo, which we visit on the way back. The sanctuary is another half hour down the road from here. The trail begins with a stone path with a separate trail for horses. The hike takes from 45 minutes to an hour each way."

Insider tips

Bring an extra jacket because it will always be colder in the sanctuary which is at an altitude of almost 10,000 ft or 3000 m. If riding a horse, you can ask to tie the coat onto your saddle.

Bring a water bottle, as it is important to stay hydrated especially in higher altitudes.

Arrange transportation beforehand and start out early. To maximize your time with the butterflies, it's good to be up on the mountain by noon.

Don't underestimate the hike. The elevation makes it much more difficult that it appears.

Watch your feet! Be careful not to step on a butterfly. It would be a shame to come all that way and accidentally step on a butterfly!

Consider bringing a hat for sun protection.

Help your horse out by leaning slightly forward on the uphill and leaning back on the downhill. On the downhill, press your feet into your stirrups to stabilize your body. 

28 Comments
Peggy Stein link
1/3/2019 12:40:40 pm

Very informative article about the sanctuaries in Mexico! One comment to clarify: "Pueblo Magico" is a special recognition given to many towns in Mexico, including Angangueo. It means magic village, which is not a great translation, but it signifies that the town has preserved its tradition and charm.

Reply
Rebecca Chandler
1/12/2019 09:29:03 am

Thank you for the clarification!

Reply
Fred
7/10/2020 03:28:28 pm

I would like to volunteer at one of the butterfly sanctuaries in Michoacan. Can you please direct me to the appropriate contacts?Thank you.

Cherie Donovan
1/8/2019 02:52:12 pm

We would like to see the monarchs in Mexico at the Sierra
Chincua sanctuary. We would like to go around March 24th.
So here’s my question that I hope you can help with... is this too late? I had one tour company tell me it is and that there’s no tours at that time. Do you know? If we go to the sanctuary is it open? Are there horses available? And will we see butterflies? Thanks for your help!!

Reply
Rebecca Chandler
1/13/2019 08:24:33 pm

Hi Cheri,
I checked with a source that lives near the sanctuary and she said that the monarchs usually start trickling out by March 15 and are all gone by the equinox on March 20/21. So the answer to your questions is no. If you want to see the butterflies, you will have to plan your trip earlier. There are horses available and Sierra Chincua and there are guides there ready to give you a tour (no need to book a tour company). Let me know if you have any more questions and I hope you make it to the sanctuary!

Reply
Vanessa W link
1/22/2019 01:44:47 pm

Hello, thank you for your write up on the Sierra Chinchua sanctuary. I will be going this week. Just wondering about the transportation there. We are staying in Zitacuaro, you wrote that you took the bus from Zitacuaro to Angangueo. Am I correct in understanding that there arent any direct busses from Zitacuaro to the santuary?

Reply
Rebecca link
1/25/2019 10:26:10 am

Hello Vanessa,
Thank you for your question and that is great you are visiting Sierra Chincua! Correct, there are not any direct buses from Zitacuaro to Sierra Chincua. The reason for is that the winding road up the mountain to the sanctuary is very steep and I don't think it would necessarily be safe for a bus to take.
However, once you get off the bus in Angangueo, there will be several taxis waiting to take you where you need to go. If you don't speak Spanish, try to memorize a few key phrases for asking for transportation. You will need to communicate that you want to go to Sierra Chincua and what time you need to come back. As I mentioned in the blog, there is not a lot of public transportation going to Sierra Chincua. I was told that there is only a 5:00 combi coming from Mexico City. Instead of taking the risk of missing the combi, we opted to pay our taxi driver extra to wait for us. Note that there is not any phone service in Sierra Chincua either.
El Rosario is the other option you can take from Angangueo and has public transportation that will take you there regularly.
Hopefully this information helps. I don't want to discourage you from going to Sierra Chincua. Although it is a tad more difficult, there will be less people and a wonderful experience!

Reply
Jaye
1/22/2019 01:54:55 pm

Thank you for detailing your experience. It is very helpful. I am headed to Sierra Chincua tomorrow and have one question. What is the earliest scheduled bus ride from Zitacuaro to Angangueo? I’d like to arrive as soon as the doors open at 8am and sync my arrival time as close to that as possible. Also, is there a bus that can take me from Angangueo up to Sierra Chincua.

Reply
Rebecca link
1/25/2019 10:34:09 am

Hello Jaye,
Thank you for your question and I'm sorry I couldn't get back to you sooner. It is difficult to say exactly when the earliest bus is because there aren't online schedules but I can say that arriving to the bus stop early and asking around is your best bet. There will definitely be a morning bus for you to take. There aren't any buses to take you to the sanctuary unless you book a tour but plenty of taxis that can take you there for around 100 pesos ($5). Best of luck and Enjoy!

Reply
Amy
2/21/2019 12:57:37 pm

Is there any way to see any of the sanctuaries for someone who has mobility challenges? For example, if they cannot walk long distances is a wheel chair at all possible?

Reply
Rebecca
2/23/2019 08:18:12 am

Hi Amy,
The two sanctuaries I visited(Sierra Chincua and Cerro Pelon) were only available by horseback or hiking as they were up on top of a mountain. However, I have read that 'El Rosario' Sanctuary provides a paved trail that goes right up to the colony of butterflies. I think that would be your best bet. Unfortunately, I couldn't find any good information about whether or not it was wheelchair accessible. I will continue to look into it. Thank you for your question!

Reply
Steve
4/17/2019 07:38:10 pm

Hi,
Very helpful description of the different sanctuaries. Any chance you would know if they are open to visitors on Christmas Eve or Day?
Thanks!

Reply
Rebecca
11/30/2019 03:15:09 pm

I am not sure but I would think so.

Reply
Anita Vilchis
8/5/2019 02:19:07 pm

I will be visiting Mexico from October 19 to November 9, 2019 and would like to visit Chincua on the Day of the dead November 1. Will it be open?

Reply
Rebecca
11/30/2019 03:15:55 pm

The sanctuaries opened on November 16th!

Reply
Amy Creamer
10/20/2019 12:20:08 pm

Hi! My husband and I have a 15 hour layover at Mexico City airport. I would love to go to one of the sanctuaries as a day trip instead of sitting in the airport all day. We have been helping the monarchs by collecting eggs and releasing butterflies in NYS, it would be amazing to see where they eventually end up. What sanctuary is closest to the airport and do you think this is doable? We are coming in Feb 2020.
Thanks!

Reply
Rebecca
11/30/2019 03:31:06 pm

Hi Amy,
On the Mexico state side, the Piedra Herrada and Cerro Pelón sanctuaries are open to the public. I would recommend Cerro Pelon because it is larger. Here are directions on how to make a day-trip here from JM BnB in Machers (highly recommend this tour company) https://jmbutterflybnb.com/butterfly-tours/
DAY TRIP TO CERRO PELON A caveat: Day trips are super rushed! If you can make the time to stay with us, it makes for a much more relaxed and pleasant visit. But if you really don’t have the time to stay overnight, then day trips are an option if you’re staying in Mexico City or Zitácuaro (Morelia is too far away ). It’s $85 USD per person. Transportation to and from the Zitácuaro bus terminal to Macheros is not included (300 MXN each way). You will need to leave Mexico City super early to reach us in time for breakfast and our 10 am tour departure. Buses leave the Observatorio terminal (also called Poniente) in Mexico City for Zitácuaro every 40 minutes. Buy a “directo” ticket on the 6 am bus with the company called Excelencia. The ride takes about 2 hours. If you don’t linger too long, you will be back in the city in time for dinner. Buses depart going both ways every 40 minutes all day long. Read our Cerro Pelon Day Trip Guide for everything you need to know about making this journey."

Reply
Jennifer Gardner
11/20/2019 07:44:48 am

Hi Rebecca! We are visiting Morelia at the beginning of next week (November 25 2019) and would love to visit El Rosario for a day trip as we have our own rental car. Do you know if the monarchs have already started arriving this year please or will we be too early? It's a long trip so I want to be sure it will be worthwhile - otherwise we'll leave it until another trip. Thank you!

Reply
Rebecca
11/30/2019 03:32:11 pm

Hi Jennifer,
The Monarchs began arriving at the sanctuaries at the beginning of Novembers so you will definitely have the opportunity to see them!
Thanks!

Reply
Sarah
11/24/2021 03:25:04 pm

Hi Jennifer, your comment is the first I have come across that speaks about renting a car and going in your own. How did this work out… good or bad? Do you have an itinerary you could share. This is my third year in trying to plan it but can’t ever find information tor what I would like to do.

Reply
Dan
1/9/2020 05:39:41 am

Thank you for all the great information. I am visiting Mexico in February and am planning to see some butterflies. I have a question. Are the reserves closed on Mondays. On my previous trips to Mexico I got used to any sort of museum or archaeological site being closed on Mondays, so was curious if these places would be the same. Thank you.

Reply
Wai Yin
2/9/2020 03:38:59 pm

Rebecca,

Thank you for the very informative page on the 4 monarch butterfly sanctuaries. Just wanted to share with your readers my 2 cents of experience at the El Rosario Sanctuary that I visited this past January 2020.

I took the comfortable double-decker 2 hr bus ride from Mexico City to Zitacuaro, 297mxn one way, and a 10% discount on the return trip the same day, with the Autovias company, from the Poniente Bus Terminal in Mexico City. The refurnbished old bus/combi from Zitacuaro to Angangueo leaves every 15 or 20 min, at 30mxn each trip but don't count on punctuality. The trip I had took over 1 hr 20 min, depending on condition of the vehicle and how many passengers get on and off. There is mini-van 8 passenger vehicle/coletivo leaving every hour on the hour from Angangueo going up to the El Rosario Sanctuary, 40mxn. Takes about 30 min. I and 2 fellow Mexican passengers did make arrangement for the combi driver to pick us up for a return trip but he did not show up! The horse back ride at El Rosario is 100mxn one way or 200mxn for round trip. The slop is quite steep. The place was not crowded and there were large clusters of butterflies sunning themselves on dry rocks near a shallow water source, and many more dripping from tree foliage in another spot. Awesome and beautiful. Many guides around, eateries and crafts and fruit vendors. I ended up flagging a local vehicle owned by a grocery supplier who drove me to his city Ocampo via a gentler and shady forest route at 100mxn. An unexpected adventure. Lesson learnt for future trips: use monetary incentive to ensure a return ride, and hope it works. (Exchange rate US=17.9mxn).

To Sierra Chincua and Cerro Pelon next year!

Reply
Gloria Schley
1/16/2022 11:38:02 pm

Is the Cerro Pelon Sanctuary open now in 2022? I am an American who is looking forward to visiting.

Reply
Rebecca
1/17/2022 06:39:08 am

Hi Gloria,
Thanks for your question. Cerro Pelon is unfortunately closed again this year. However, Butterflies and Their People offers virtual butterfly experiences that helps support monarch conservation while offering a cool experience! You can find out more at: https://butterfliesandtheirpeople.org/virtual/

Reply
Margie
2/20/2022 10:45:46 am

I am in a wheel chair staying in Chapala. I would like to experience the butterfly migration in Morelia soon. Please advise if this is possible in a wheel chair and any trip/tour details you recommend. Thank you in advance for your reply.

Reply
Amy I Billings
9/26/2022 10:22:23 am

Hello! I am visiting between Dec 17-Dec 26. Any suggestions on where we should stay? We were planning to travel from Mexico City but may stay closer to the sanctuaries while we visit all 4. Is it safe to rent our own car? Do we need to buy tickets to enter the sanctuaries ahead of time or can we purchase the day of? Thank you for your help!

Amy

Reply
ann macdonald
2/5/2023 05:16:49 pm

Is March 15 too late to see the Monarch’s?

Reply
Rebecca Chandler
2/19/2023 07:15:50 am

Hi Ann,

Historically, they are known to leave the sanctuaries en masse around the first week of March. March 15th would be pushing it but every year is slightly different. I was there this week and they were starting to mate and were very active. This seems indicative of a migration coming up very soon.

Thanks for your question! I will be writing more current blogs on the sanctuaries this week.

Reply



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    Rebecca Chandler
    Garden Educator, Naturalist and Ethnobotanist

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