Our goal is to install over 5,000 Pollinator Gardens across the US and you can help!
We have received so many pictures and stories of successful School Pollinator Garden Projects and we want to encourage everyone to start one in their community! It’s very easy to get started and we are going to tell you how.
You don't need a lot of space to start a pollinator garden and just a few containers or raised beds can provide a habitat for hungry butterflies and bees. Having this outdoor classroom can encourage observation, exploration and a instill land stewardship values. Teachers can even build a curriculum around a garden, focusing on subjects such as: biology, environmental studies, writing, and art.
OPTION 1: Sign up for our Pollinator School Program
Send an online application to receive FREE seeds for your school, scout troop, 4-H club or non-profit organization. The Pollinator Seed Packet contains 25 wildflower varieties for children to plant in a Butterfly & Bee Garden!
Send your request to by Mail:
Pollinator Garden Program
Save Our Monarchs Foundation
PO Box 390135
Minneapolis, MN 55439
Once you receive your seeds, you can start developing a Monarch Education program at your school. There are various Free educational resources online.
OPTION 2: Sign up for our School Fundraising Program
Save Our Monarchs would like to partner with your school!
We are currently working with school districts across the country that want to educate their students about the plight of the monarch, and spread the word throughout their community through various fundraising efforts and outreach. We currently offer two options for Fundraising.
OPTION 1: School-Funded
For every $35 donation to Save Our Monarchs, schools receive 100 Milkweed Seed Packs. Students can then sell the Milkweed Seed Packets for $1 to $2 each. If a school were to sell 1,000 Milkweed Seed Packets, for instance, they can make up to $2,000 ($1,750 profit) which can be used to purchase school supplies, playground equipment, pay for sports programs, etc.
OPTION 2: Save Our Monarchs-Funded
With this option, schools receive milkweed seed packets for free (shipping fees apply). Students then sell the Milkweed Seed Packets for $1 to $2 each. All proceeds are sent back to Save Our Monarchs so we can continue to invest in more milkweed seeds to save the monarchs butterfly.
Questions? Please send us a message at www.facebook.com/saveourmonarchs/ or email us at firstname.lastname@example.org
Did you know that most Milkweed seeds and many other perennial plants need a period of cold stratification in order to germinate?
In using the Outdoor Methods, it is best to plant your seeds after the first frost. I live in Nebraska where the first average frost happens around October 5th. (click here to find out when your average first frost is). I am planting Common Milkweed (Ascepias syriaca) because it is the most common species of Milkweed growing in my area and I know it needs a cold stratification period.
The "Fall Planting Method"
Fall planting is a traditional method of cold stratification. The best time to plant Milkweed seeds in the Fall when the first frosts start to occur. I recommend planting them directly in the ground, however you can plant them in pots with some additional attention.
1. Choose an area where you want to grow your Milkweed plants. Make sure it has proper sunlight and is in a slightly protected area.
If planting in pots, make sure they are protected (i.e. against the side of a building or next to straw bales). Make sure the pots are not in the drip-line of the building so that they could potentially fill with water and then freeze. However, snow-melt is an important part of the process so do allow snow to cover the pot.
2. Sprinkle the seeds on the soil and mulch with a couple inches of straw or leaves.
Note: Do not pack the mulch down as it is important to have a bit of air flow to deter mold and fungus from growing.
3. Sprinkle water over the seed bed if soil is dry.
4. Mark the area so you don't forget where you planted.
5. Be patient. They will not germinate and start sprouting until Spring and sprouting will not occur all at the same time as with most cultivated varieties of plants. These are wild plants that will have more genetic variation and will be more likely to survive once they have become established.
The "Winter Planting Method"
This method is also called "Snow Planting". It is an easy, fun method that should spark the interest of children and adults alike!
During the winter after a heavy snow, broadcast your seeds out on the snow. Believe it or not, many of them will come up in the spring! The moisture will soften their seed coats and essentially wake them up.
Make sure it is in an area that you want the plants to grow and will have plenty of sunlight in the Spring and Summer.
Have fun experimenting with different methods of cold stratification. You can even plant a small batch of Milkweed seeds in the Fall, Winter and Spring! Why not? Each time you will learn something new and know what works best for your area next time. Don't give up and record your findings!
I have just covered how to sow Milkweed in the Fall and Winter in this blog. If you want to opt for the Spring planting stay tuned for Part 2 of the Cold Stratification 101. In the meantime, keep you Milkweed seeds in a dry, aerated envelope and store in a dark place for the Winter. If I plant in the Spring, I generally start the Cold/Moist treatment for Milkweeds 30-60 days before the last average frost in my area.
Save Our Monarchs recently released our Pandora Monarch Butterfly Charm and we went behind the scenes to see how they were made!
The Monarch Butterfly Charm was created by local glass artist from Nebraska, Matthew Losee, and the proceeds go to support Save Our Monarch's School Pollinator Program. The beads can be used on earrings, bracelets, necklaces, key chains and the list goes on! They also make thoughtful gifts to your Monarch-loving friends and family.
Each glass color is layered separately onto a mandrel beginning with black. The glass that is used is call borosilicate which is what Pyrex is made from and is extremely break-resistant.
Next, the unique "Monarch Orange" glass color is layered on.
Now for the distinctive white spots that we recognize on our Monarch friends.
Lastly, a clear layer of glass is added in order to magnify the image and they are put into a kiln.
Meet the Artist
How do you use your Monarch bead? Please post in the comments ways in which you use yours!
The time has come to collect milkweed seeds if you haven't already. You can plant them next year, give them to friends and family, share with your community and/or donate them to your favorite Monarch conservation organization!
Where should I collect? You can collect Milkweed pods on private lands (with permission of course), public right of ways and road sides.
What if I'm not sure how if it's a Milkweed plant? All milkweed species develop a seed pod and they look very similar. Refer to the Milkweed Identification blog if you're not sure how to identify Milkweed.
How much should I collect? The rule of thumb for harvesting wild plants is to leave at least 2/3rds of the plant to ensure that the wild population will continue to thrive.
Step 1: Collecting the Milkweed Pods
Timing is key when collecting milkweed seeds. Here are a couple of tricks to ensure that your seeds are mature and viable.
If the pod is brown and has already popped open releasing their silky fluff, also called coma, you know that they are ready and you can harvest them and remove the fluff later.
However, if you want to avoid the fluff and be able to take the seeds off neatly and easily, here is a little trick.
I look for green seed pods and the first thing I do is squeeze the seed pod. If I hear a gentle pop and see that the pod has split at the suture, then I look inside. If the seeds are a nice coffee brown then I know they are mature and I can collect the pod. However, If the seeds are white or tan, I don’t collect them and let them continue to mature on the plant.
Milkweed seeds can mold easily so I like to use a paper bag or cardboard box when I'm out collecting.
Step 2- Removing the Seeds from the Husk
This is a fun and relaxing activity. So, I’ve already collected my light green seed pods that have row after row of beautiful tightly packed seeds. I let them sit for about 2 weeks so they are dry and easy to remove (you do not have to let them dry this long). I open the pod at the suture and grab the narrow end of the pod then gently pull until the seed follicle comes out of the husk. Then, I rake my finger nail along the seed follicle, going WITH the grain of the seeds.
To see a video of this process click here.
Step 3- Drying
After you remove the seeds, you’ll want to let them dry out for 3 days to a week. I like to let them dry on cardboard in a well-ventilated area. My porch works well for this.
Step 4- Storage
Once they have dried out, I store them in small manilla envelopes and date them. I do not store them in plastic bags because this will often cause them to mold.
You Can Donate Your Seeds To Save Our Monarchs Foundation
If YOU have seeds to donate from your own plantings, you can:
1) Donate it to Save our Monarchs via postal mail
Save Our Monarchs Foundation
P.O. Box #390135
Minneapolis, MN 55439
2) Scatter the seed in public areas, including city and state parks, schools, lakes, rivers, bike trails, golf courses (with permission).
Let's face it, pests are the bane of any gardener's existence.
Although pesticides can be helpful in managing garden pests, they also have a number of drawbacks including: potential toxicity to humans, pets and pollinators. In fact, millions of pollinators die each year due to pesticides and tainted Milkweed is a common factor in Monarch mortality.
Which begs the question: How do you get rid of the bad bugs while sparing your beloved pollinators and other beneficial bugs?
Although the best option is to avoid pesticides altogether, many gardeners can't imagine not using any pesticides at all. Therefore, this blog will discuss pesticides with the lowest toxicity to pollinators and tips for safely applying pesticides.
*Here is a list of EPA’s reduced risk pesticides that pose less risk to human health and the environment than existing pesticides.
First off, What is a pesticide?
Pesticides are a broad category of substances that are meant to deter, kill or discourage various types of pests such as weeds, nematodes, plant pathogens or fungi. The term pesticide includes herbicides, insecticides, nematicides, fungicide and other pest deterrents.
10 Tips for Using Pesticides Safely
Know what type of insects you are targeting.
Do not treat flowering plants.
Do not spray where pollinators such as butterflies, bees and moths are actively foraging.
When possible, eliminate weeds by mowing or pulling.
Choose short residual materials and low-hazard formulations if insecticides absolutely must be applied during the flowering period to save the crop.
Apply insecticides when pollinators are no longer foraging such as in the evening or early morning.
Adjust spray programs in relation to weather conditions. If it is windy, do not spray.
Read the pesticide label.
When possible, remove bugs by hand.
Reduce pressure of spray nozzle to prevent pesticide drift.
If you choose to use pesticides, consider these safer options.
Keep in mind that no pesticides are completely safe to pollinators but if you follow these guidelines, you may be able to minimize your impact. This is a list of pesticides that are considered pollinator safe by the Michigan State University extension office.
Insecticidal soaps are most effective on soft-bodied insects such as aphids, adelgids, lace bugs, leafhoppers, mealybugs, thrips, sawfly larvae, spider mites and whiteflies. They are not effective on pests as a residue on the plant surface, and therefore are not toxic to pollinators after the spray dries. They can be safely used at any time to control pests on plants that are not attractive to pollinators, but on pollinator-attractive plants spray at dawn or dusk when pollinators are not present.
Like insecticidal soap, horticultural oils work best when the spray comes in contact with the pest. Once the oil spray dries, it does not have much effect and becomes safe for pollinators and other beneficial insects. Horticultural oil can be safely used at any time to control pests on plants that are not attractive to pollinators, but on pollinator-attractive plants they should be sprayed at dawn or dusk when pollinators are not present.
Bacillus thuringiensis (B.t.)
While a B.t. strain works well for its target pest, it also breaks down quickly in sunlight, becoming ineffective after a few days. This makes B.t. very safe for pollinators, predatory insects and mammals. B.t. can be sprayed even when bees or butterflies are present.
The fungus Metarhizium anisopliae is found naturally in soils and infects and kills insects. M. anisopliae does not detrimentally impact honey bees and is being studied as a bio-insecticide of varroa mites, a pest of honey bees.
Spinosad is highly toxic to bees. However, toxicity is greatly reduced once the product has dried on the foliage, within three hours to one day depending on the product. Therefore, avoid use if bees are active, and if applications are needed, apply in the evening when bees are not active and product has time to dry. This product suppresses a broad number of caterpillar species and should not be sprayed or allowed to drift in known habitats for threatened or endangered species of caterpillars and butterflies.
As a caution, apply pymetrozine in the evening, night or early morning when bees and butterflies are not visiting blooming plants. Since this product is selective for aphids and whiteflies, there should be no impact on other pollinators or natural enemies.
Acequinocyl is considered nontoxic to bees and can be applied at any time. Since acequinocyl is selective for mites, other pollinators and natural enemies should not be affected.
The Xerxes Society. https://xerces.org/neonicotinoids-and-bees/
North American Pollinator Protection Campaign
Pesticide Environmental Stewardship. https://pesticidestewardship.org/ipm/
Michigan State University Extension, How to protect and increase pollinators in your landscape. http://msue.anr.msu.edu/resources/how_to_protect_and_increase_pollinators_in_your_landscape/how_to_control_invasive_pests_while_protecting_pollinators#subpage
Many people have been asking, “What's wrong with my Monarch caterpillar/egg/chrysalis?”
This is a list of the MOST common problems that the Monarch Rearer may encounter and how you can either avoid your Monarch from being infected or avoid the infection from spreading to your other caterpillars. Hopefully these tips and indicators can help you raise healthier Monarchs in the future!
Warning: Some photos may seem graphic or unpleasant.
UPDATE: Flea and tick treatment along with several cleaning products in your home can be deadly to Monarchs caterpillars.
We recently received this tip from one of our readers.
Any flea or tick prevention given to cats or dogs, both topically applied and orally administered, are toxic to Monarch larvae.
Allowing your treated cat or dog to rub against your Monarch's cage can cause harm or death to the caterpillars inside. Petting your animal after treatment and then gathering milkweed leaves or touching anything in your Monarch's cage can harm your caterpillars.
Also, be aware of any potentially toxic cleaning products you may be using around your caterpillar cage such as Febreeze, other air fresheners, carpet cleaners, Windex, or Lysol. Remember that these are very delicate creatures and even small doses of chemicals can be fatal.
Prevention: Whenever interacting with your Monarch caterpillars make sure you washed your hands prior and/or wear gloves to be sure that your hands are free of any chemicals. Try to use natural cleaning products inside the room your caterpillars are living.
What is Black Death?
As the name suggests, this is a fatal and very unpleasant ailment for the Monarch. Black Death is a general yet appropriate term used to describe the effects of two different infections. Pseudomonas is a bacteria that thrives in moist environments and Nuclear polyhedrosis virus (NPV) is a virus.
How to tell if your Monarch has Black Death:
Your caterpillar may be fine one day and the next start to become lethargic, start to deflate, refuse to eat and start to turn a darker color. Sometimes their chrysalises will turn dark brown or they pupate and then liquefy into a black goo. This can be a traumatic experience for the Monarch Rearer but once your caterpillar has contracted Black Death, it is nearly impossible to save them and the best thing to do is remove it immediately from the cage and disinfect anything it may have touched in order to prevent it from spreading to other caterpilalrs.
Note: NPV causes the caterpillar to climb to a high spot, hang in an l or inverted V shape, and die. The caterpillar then liquefies inside and when the skin of the caterpillars splits open, the black goo will send millions of virus particles on its surroundings. The smell is very pungent. If a caterpillar lies at the bottom of a rearing container (instead of crawling higher in the container) and dies either firm or mushy, it is not infected with NPV.
How to prevent Black Death
O.E. (Ophryocystis elektroscirrha)
What is OE?
OE is a protozoan parasite that is spread through microscopic spores coming off the wings and bodies of adult butterflies. These spores are packed in between scales on the Monarch's body and when it lays eggs, often attaches to the egg shell. Because OE is a parasite, it relies on a living host and will generally not kill Monarchs but will lead to weakness, disfigurement, and lethargy. Eventually it may die from sheer exhaustion.
How to tell if your Monarch has OE:
You won't be able to tell if a Monarch has OE until it's in the pupal or adult stage. Infected chrysalises won’t have a uniform green color. You can check your chrysalis closely to make sure it's dark spots are mirrored on both sides. Heavily infected Monarchs may not emerge or if they do they may be deformed or too weak to hold on.
How to prevent OE:
What are Tachinid Flies?
Tachinid flies can be difficult to differentiate from other flies in your garden. However, if you look closely, you will see that they are hairy and have huge red eyes.
How tell if your Monarch was infected by a Tachinid Fly:
This is one of the easiest Monarch infections to identify. They lay eggs on monarch caterpillars and once hatched, the maggots will bore into the caterpillar and feed on them while they are still living. You can generally tell if your caterpillar has been infected if it suddenly gets much skinnier and will sometimes die while attempting to form it’s chrysalis. These flies also lay eggs inside chrysalises. After it’s host has died, the maggots will emerge, leaving tell-tale white strands of silk hanging from the caterpillar or chrysalis.
How to prevent Tachinid Flies:
Sadly, it occurs quite often where nurseries treat their milkweed with pesticides or roadsides/fields are sprayed where you collected milkweed/caterpillars unknowingly.
How to tell if your Monarch has come into contact with Tainted Milkweed:
If your caterpillar has ingested pesticides it will often expel green vomit.
How to avoid this from happening:
What are Trichogramma Wasps?
They are tiny parasitic wasps that inject a single egg into the eggs of the pest. After consuming the contents of its host egg, a new adult wasp will emerge within 10 days.
How to tell if your Monarch has come into contact with Trichogramma Wasps:
If your egg turns completely dark keep an eye on it for the next couple of days to make sure a Monarch doesn’t hatch. If it doesn’t hatch, squeeze the egg inside of the leaf and dispose of the leaf.
How to avoid:
What are Chalcid Wasps?
This is another tiny, parasitic wasp that waits for the perfect moment to attack your beloved caterpillar. It will approach when the caterpillar is in it’s vulnerable “J” stage and wait for it to form a chrysalis. Then, right afterwards, it lays hundreds of its eggs in the soft chrysalis.
How to tell if your Monarch has been infected by Chalcid Wasps:
Look for small black dots where it appears they have deposited their eggs.
How to avoid:
When this occurs, the caterpillar’s rectum protrudes from its anus, leaving a bright green ball at the end of your caterpillar. It’s not known what causes this, but it’s always fatal to the caterpillar.
I don’t know about you, but I find photographing insects and butterflies quite thrilling.
It might be the act of slowly sneaking up on them or the knowledge that they could flit away at any moment, but I always feel a sense of accomplishment after capturing an elusive butterfly on camera. Looking closely at the intricate patterns and observing their intriguing behaviors can provide a new perspective. There are a vast number of insects in the world (in the United States, the number of described species is approximately 91,000) so you will never run out of subject matter! The beauty and diversity of insects may just open up a whole new world for you.
You don’t have to break the bank on a new camera to get some great photos. Sometimes photos taken with your smart phone can be just as good as photos taken with expensive cameras.
Here are a few options:
A smart phone with a Macro lens attachment ($15 on Amazon)
A digital camera set to Macro mode
A DSLR camera with Macro lens attachment
Let them come to you
If you are looking for a specific type of butterfly or insect, It is very helpful to know some of your subject’s nectar and food sources so that you don’t spend all of your time chasing an elusive insect. Simply sit back and wait by one of their favorite treats and it is much more likely that they will come to you.
For instance, if you would like to photograph Painted Ladies, try hanging out near asters, goldenrods and marigolds. For Monarchs, think Milkweed!
If you don’t have a specific subject-matter in mind but just want to photograph butterflies, head to a garden with lots of flowers, a field outside of town or the nearest butterfly house. Sometimes you don't have to go far at all. I've found both Tiger Swallowtail butterflies and Hummingbird Moths feeding on my Beebalm and Coneflower patch in my yard.
It may be helpful to look over our Butterfly Identification 101 blog if you are trying to identify a butterfly.
Get the Timing Right
The best time to photograph butterflies is in the early morning when the lighting is soft and late afternoon when they are less active.
If it is mid-afternoon and you have a perfect opportunity to get a shot, here’s a quick trick to optimize your photo. If it’s a cloudy day, wait for the sun to pass behind a cloud to get a good shot. Sometimes, when you cast a shadow on your subject or move the branch they are sitting on, they will move in order to find sunlight so try not to disrupt their environment too much.
You can start out with your camera in Auto Focus mode to ensure that you will capture your subject, especially when you know that you don’t have long to get the shot. However, if you do have a little bit of time to adjust your shot, manual focus will almost always get the clearest and most interesting shot.
A rule-of-thumb is to focus on the insect’s eyes to get the best focus.
Tip: Make sure that you have your settings on your camera or phone adjusted before you approach your subject of choice. Insects, and especially butterflies, are apt to fly off at any moment.
Framing and Composition
The main objective is to capture the subject even if it isn’t perfect so don't be afraid to take an initial shot when you can. If you do have time to frame the photo, even better! It’s best to get a plain background, to make sure your subject pops and provides optimal contrast.
Butterflies don’t always have their wings open, so try to time the shot when their wings are open but also try different angles for more interesting photos.
Ready to give it a try?
SaveOurMonarch’s 3rd Annual Photo Contest is currently in progress until September 1st so you have lots of time to hone in on your insect photography skills and display them to the public!
For for information, read eligibility guidelines on our Facebook page.
Digital Macro & Close-up Photography - Ross Hoddinott
Close-up on Insects: A Photographer's Guide Hardcover – by Dr. Robert Thompson (Author), Stephen Dalton (Foreword)
Why raise Monarchs at home?
In the wild, Monarch eggs and larvae have a very small chance of survival.
Several studies have documented mortality rates of over 90% during the egg and larva stages.
That means only 10% of eggs and caterpillars will reach adulthood!
Not only is it a fun activity for the whole family but you are actually helping out an entire species!
Still not convinced?
What if I told you it’s easy to rear Monarchs at home? All you will need to get started is a ventilated box (we recommend these inexpensive enclosures) a few milkweed plants and, of course, your Monarch egg or caterpillar. The entire process from egg to adult butterfly takes about 1 month.
It's important to understand the life cycles of a Monarch before you get started. Monarchs go through complete metamorphosis in which there are four distinct stages of growth in one life cycle! These stages are: egg, the larvae (caterpillar), the pupa (chrysalis), and adult butterfly.
Life Cycle of a Monarch
Monarchs overwinter in Mexico and certain parts of Southern California. When they wake up from hibernation, they will intuitively head North and East to start laying eggs.
In March and April the eggs are laid on milkweed plants and it takes only 4 days for an egg to hatch!
According to Karen Oberhauser, Monarch biologist, captive monarch butterflies average about 700 eggs per female as opposed to 300-400 in the wild.
Monarch females usually lay a single egg on a milkweed plant on the bottom of leaf. So, when searching for eggs, don't forget to flip the leaf over! Eggs are very small and sometimes easy to miss!
Larval Stage (Caterpillar)
The larval stage last 2 weeks. Once the egg has hatched, a very small (and hungry) caterpillar emerges. During this time, the caterpillar will spend most of it's time eating so it will need fresh leaves everyday. As the caterpillar grows and becomes too large for its skin, it molts. The intervals between molts are called instars. Monarchs go through 5 instars. Click here if you'd like to learn more about differentiating the different instars.
Once the Monarch larvae has reached their final molting stage, they will hang upside down by their last pair of prolegs and create a chrysalis. They will spend between 1 and 2 weeks inside the chrysalis.
Before the butterfly emerges, the chrysalis will turn from green to clear like in the picture below. Once adults, Monarchs will live another two to six weeks in the summer. However, the last generation of super Monarchs that complete the migration much longer, about six to nine months.
Materials Needed for Raising Monarchs
Make sure you have a local nursery that you can acquire milkweed plants from or you already have some established in your yard because Monarch caterpillars can eat up to 200X their own body weight! Click here for types of Milkweed that are suitable for rearing Monarchs.
2. Monarch caterpillars or eggs- These can be found outside on milkweed plants or purchased.
3. Ventilated container such as a deli container or aquarium works well.
We recommend these inexpensive enclosures that make for easy cleaning. Use promo code 'monarchs10' to receive an additional 10% off.
4. Paper towels
5 Steps to Raising A Monarch at Home
Step 1: Find the eggs and/or caterpillars
The best way to do this is to visit milkweed plants daily that you know are already established and if you planned ahead, are already in your backyard! If you don’t have any luck finding milkweed plants or caterpillars, you can also order monarch rearing kits like this from Monarch Watch that contain live caterpillars .
Step 2: Choose a container
Put the eggs or caterpillars in a container and line with paper towels. Eggs only take 4 days to hatch and caterpillars will form a chrysalis within 2 weeks. Caterpillars have a HUGE appetite and can eat 200X their weight in Milkweed! A single caterpillar can easily defoliate a milkweed planted in a 1 gallon container so plan accordingly. Provide fresh leaves daily or enclose the entire milkweed plant. Larvae will survive best and attain a large size if you keep the food fresh, the container clean, and the humidity low.
Step 3: Clean the cage regularly
The caterpillars are eating constantly so they will generate a lot of frass (cute name for you know what). This frass should be collected every few days in order to keep the larvae healthy and you can replace the bottom of the container with more paper towels or parchment paper. You can even sprinkle it on your plants outside to give them a nitrogen boost!
Step 4: Keep feeding the hungry caterpillars!
It's important to remember that as the caterpillars get bigger, so will their appetite so keep a close eye on them and make sure you are providing enough fresh Milkweed. After the caterpillar reaches it’s 5th instar (molting stage) it will climb to the top of the container and begin spinning a beautiful silken chrysalis. It will not need any food at this stage so your job is mostly done!
Step 5: Release Your Butterfly Into the Wild
The chrysalis will turn clear before the adult butterfly emerges (fully metamorphosed). It is important not to touch them for at least 5 hours so their wings can dry. Keep an eye on the weather and do not release your Monarch if there is a storm on the horizon. You may need to move the butterfly into a larger container if this is the case such as an upside down laundry basket or a mesh cage.
Special thanks to Debbie Jackson of Monarch Watch for sharing her passion of rearing Monarchs
We also recommend Carol Pasternak's How to Raise Monarch Butterflies, an in-depth guide on Monarch rearing
Why is it important to learn how to identify butterflies?
Learning some of the most common butterflies in your area will help you to understand what kinds of butterflies you are attracting to your yard. If your goal is to help endangered species, this is a great place to start!
In the United States and Canada, there are more than 750 species of butterflies! Much of their habitats are being lost on a daily basis due to human activity (agriculture, roads, insecticides, herbicides etc.) However, you can help them by building habitat in your own backyard!
Click here to learn more about endangered species of butterflies.
10 Butterflies That You May Have Seen Before
Monarch- Danaus plexippus
How to Identify:
The monarch butterfly is one of the most iconic species of butterflies although it is sometimes confused with it’s lookalike butterfly, the Viceroy. The upper side of the male is bright orange with wide black borders and black veins. The upper side of the female is more of an orange-brown with wider black borders than the male.
The Viceroy butterfly mimics the Monarch in order to deceive predators. The main physical difference between the monarch and the viceroy is the black line drawn across the viceroy's hind wings, which monarch butterflies do not have. Viceroy butterflies are also significantly smaller than Monarchs. Click here to read a blog about the relationship between viceroy and monarch butterflies.
Where are they found? The monarch is found in a variety of habitats including fields, meadows, weedy areas, marshes, and roadsides. They also complete an annual southward migration from the northern and central United States and southern Canada to Florida and Mexico
What plants do they like?
Host and Nectar plant: Monarchs cannot survive without milkweed. Monarch caterpillars only eat milkweed plants (Asclepias spp.), and they also only lay their eggs on Milkweed. Due to the loss of habitat and the disappearance of milkweed, Monarchs populations are decreasing drastically.
Not sure where to find milkweed? The Xerxes Society has created a handy database where you can search your state and it will list where you can find native milkweed nearest you.
You can also buy milkweed seed here and grow it yourself at home!
How to Identify: The regal fritillary is a large butterfly that is smaller in size to the monarch butterfly. The upper side of the forewing is bright red-orange with black markings. The upper side of the hindwing is black with a row of white spots and on the wing edge is a row of spots that are orange in males and white in females.
Where are they found? The regal fritillary is found on the Great Plains and is associated with tallgrass prairies, meadows and pastures.
What plants do they like? The larvae feed on violets. The adults feed on a variety of flowers such as milkweeds, thistles, clover and purple coneflower.
There is an urgent call to track Regal Fritillary butterflies.
The Wildlife Conservation Fund created a citizen science project to monitor regal fritillaries, as well as monarchs, which are similar in appearance.
Eastern Tiger Swallowtails- Papilio glaucus
How to identify: They are quite large with bright yellow and black stripes. Male tiger swallowtails have some orange and blue spots near their tail. Females have both a light and dark form. The light form looks a bit like the male but with more blue on their hind wings. The dark form still has the blue spots, but doesn’t have any yellow.
Where are they found? The eastern tiger swallowtail can be found in a variety of habitats, especially near water, but also in meadows, gardens, parks and roadsides. It is native to the Eastern United States.
What plants do they like?
Host plant: They only lay eggs on plants from the Magnolia and Rose plant families.
Nectar plant: They drink nectar from flowers such as milkweed, thistles, honeysuckle, ironweed and red clover.
Black Swallowtail- Papilio polyxenes
How to identify:
The upper surface of the wings is black with two rows of orange-yellow spots. There is a row of blue spots between the rows of orange/yellow spots on the hind wings. There is a conspicuous red spot on the inner edge of the hind wings.
Where are they found? Throughout much of North America in meadows, urban gardens, and roadsides.
What plants do they like?
Nectar plants: They especially like to feed on Milkweed, Phlox, Red clover and Thistle.
Host plants: They will lay their eggs on plants of the Carrot family such as carrots, parsley, dill, fennel, Queen Anne’s Lace and rue.
Cabbage White- Pieris rapae
How to identify:
The cabbage white butterfly is white with charcoal gray tips on the wings. Males have a single black spot on the center of each forewing while females have two spots in the same place. The color under the forewings may be yellow or light green.
Where are they found? They are well adapted to urban areas but can also be found in fields, meadows, parks and gardens from early spring to late fall. It has been introducted to the US from Europe and is found North Africa, Asia, South America and Great Britain as well.
What plants do they like? The caterpillar can be found feeding on the leaves of cabbage and other cruciferous vegetables such as broccoli and cauliflower.
Orange Sulphur or Alfalfa Butterfly -Colias eurytheme
How to identify: The orange sulfur is identified by a small dark mark on the upper forewing, which is rounded into an oblong dot.Both sexes have a dark border; there are pale spots within the border on females.
Where are they found? They occur in fields, along roads and in residential gardens. They are found throughout North America except for central and southeastern United States. They are also seen in Mexico and Canada.
What plants do they like?
Host plants: Larvae feed on legumes, especially alfalfa, white clover and white sweet clover.
Nectar plants: Adults are attracted to many flower species.
Spring Azure- Celastrina ladon
How to identify: They are very small (under 1”) in different shades of a light violet blue. Form "violacea" has scattered dark spots. Form "marginata" has a dark gray-brown border on HW. Form "lucia" has a prominent dark splotch in the middle of the HW as well as dark borders on both wings.
Where are they found? They inhabit woodland edges and openings, and readily visit garden flowers throughout the United States except for coastal regions of Texas and Florida.
What plants do they like?
Host plants: They primarily like buds of Flowering Dogwood, blueberries, and viburnums.
Nectar plants: They like many flowering plants
Mourning Cloak- Nymphalis antiopa
How to identify: The mourning cloak is a large and easy to identify because it doesn’t have any look-a-likes. They are dark brown/maroon with thickly banded cream-colored edges. They also have bright blue spots along the edges and black-brown spotted underwings.
Where are they found? Mourning cloaks can be found in open woods, parks, gardens, and along the edges of streams, lakes and ponds throughout North America.
What plants do they like?
Nectar plants: Adults drink nectar from plants, such as milkweed and red maple, rotting fruit and tree sap.
Host plants: The caterpillars will feed on willow species, American elms, hackberry trees, hawthorne, wild rose, birch and poplar trees.
Painted Lady- Vanessa cardui
How to identify: The Painted Lady butterfly in orange and brown in color with mottled brown spot and 4 large eyespots.
Where is it found? They are the most common butterfly in the world and found throughout the world except in Antarctica, Australia and South America.
What plants do they like?
Host plants: thistle, mallows, hollyhock, legumes, others.
Nectar plants: They can feed on over 300 species of plants although their favorites are from the Aster family.
Still need help with the identification? Submit your picture here and you will receive an email with the identification!
One of the biggest factors contributing to the loss of Monarch butteflies and Milkweed is the use of pesticides and herbicides. Many pesticides contain neonicitinoids and glyphosates that are deadly to beneficial pollinators and Milkweed.
Harmful herbicides and insecticides are used generously in agriculture as well as in gardens. For a list of garden products that contain these harmful ingredients click here.
What are neonicitinoids?
Neonicitinoids are a class of broad-spectrum insecticides that are very commonly used in agriculture as well in urban gardens. They are systemic which means the plants absorbs the compounds into its tissues and distributes them into its roots, leaves, and flowers. Thus, making the entire plant toxic to insects that feed on it, including pollinators such as bees and butterflies. They are harmless to humans in small doses but they attack the central system of insects, acting as a neurotoxin.
What can I do to help?
You can help by providing habitat, no matter how small, and by protecting the monarch by using natural pest control methods on your milkweed and other pollinator plants. Below you will find a list of natural pest control methods that will not harm beneficial insects like monarchs.
Pepper and Garlic Spray
How to make it:
For a strong spray, crush 3 cloves of garlic and add 3 tablespoons of hot pepper flakes to a cup of boiling water. Allow it sit overnight. Strain out the garlic and pepper flakes in the morning. Adding a dash of dish soap or vegetable oil can also improve effectiveness.
Used for: All garden pests.
How to use it:
Spray directly on the plant. Make sure to get the underside of leaves where many pests lay eggs. You can use this spray daily if you have a pest problem or less regularly as pest prevention.
What is it?
Kaolin Clay is a natural mineral that is used for insect control on plants. It creates a thin barrier on the leaves which adheres to insects, causing excessive grooming, and thereby eliminating their urge to scavenge on the plant.
Used for: The use of Kaolin clay in the garden has been found to not only control insect pests but also protect the plant against sunburn or heat stress. You can purchase it online.
How to use it:
To use Kaolin clay on plants, it must first be mixed with water and applied via a spray bottle. The clay particles are very fine therefore the spray bottle must continuously be agitated and applied liberally.
What is it?
Neem oil is derived from the Azadirachta indica evergreen tree native to the Indian subcontinent. Neem has a long history of being used in the garden as a natural insect repellent.
Used for: mites, including aphids, white flies, snails, nematodes, mealybugs, cabbage worms, gnats, moths,cockroaches, flies, termites, mosquitoes, and scale.
How to use:
Spray directly on the plant, including the bottoms of leaves.
What is it?
Diatomaceous Earth is made of fossilized shells of tiny organisms called diatoms. It looks like a white, chalky powder.
aphids, mites, ants, thrips, slugs, snails, and other soft bodied insects
How to use:
Shake powder onto leaves or at base of plant OR mix with water to make a spray. It will cut soft parts of insects which kills the insects by dehydrating them.